Davos

The Classic "Steph" Pose



Ursula, Myself, and Walter



This blog is about my three wonderful and totally outstanding days in Davos.  I will never be able to thank my counsellor, Walter, or his wife, Ursula, enough for having me as a guest in one of the most amazing places I have ever seen in my life.  It is because of them, and because of all other Rotarians that this trip to Switzerland, and trip to Davos was possible for me.  Thank you!

Day 1

I decided to get an early start on my day in Davos, and so left the house at 6.30am.  I thought Barbara’s eyes were going to pop out when I told her what time I planned for my departure.  She has never seen me out of bed before six thirty, and never truly awake until after ten.  But, in the dark of the foggy morning, I threw my hockey bag over my shoulder and headed to the bus stop. 

I looked a bit out of place in my big sweater and Birkenstocks because the only other people living at that hour are the business people in classy suits heading to Zurich.  My travel to Davos had many stops (Untersiggenthal, Baden, Zürich, Landquart, Davos), but it was one of my first flawless travels.  That’s if you don’t include when I fell asleep in the train.  I swear I sleep in the train like it’s a five-star hotel king-sized bed. I thought I’d been asleep for ever, and so woke up in a panic.  I asked the old man across from me where we were and if I’d missed my stop.  He tried to suppress a smile as he calmly told me I’d been sleeping less than five minutes and my stop wasn’t for another hour.  Oops.  Well, we ended up talking for most of this hour, so I suppose my embarrassment- as usual- led to something good.  He must have sensed how easily I get lost and confused in this hour because he ended up showing me my platform, giving me a handshake, and saying “good luck”.  I took this as like, “best wishes”, or “much happiness”, but who knows? Maybe he thought I was truly in need of luck to end up successfully in Davos.

 My last train ride was a gorgeous one.  It was a special, smaller train, and it slowly wound through hills and mountains constantly ascending to arrive in Davos.  I took about a hundred pictures that I realize now look stupid, because they are through a very reflective window, but at the time, I couldn’t help it.  It was just so stunning! I got off at the final stop “Davos Platz” and looked around.  Everything was beautiful.  The stores, the people, the cafes…oh yeah, and the enormous mountains on either side of the town! I had a small map and walked for what seemed like forever to the hotel.  My bag was extremely heavy and I was slightly angry when I found out later I walked by the bus station that goes directly to the hotel.  I was wondering when I would finally find the right place when I turned a corner and saw an enormous, glimmering, beautiful hotel with the words “STEIGENBERGER, Five Star, Belvedere, Davos”. 

 

Yup, that’s where I was staying.  I instantly regretted my messy hair, hockey bag, and big sweater, but still waltzed happily into the gleaming hotel reception area.  Everyone who works in Davos speaks English, so it was helpful.  I am not quite good enough yet to check into a hotel in German.  I was instantly greeted as “Miss Edmunds”, which I enjoyed thoroughly.  My room wasn’t ready (expected- it was only 10.00am) but they took my bags for me and gave me a special card which allows me to use all special mountain transportation for free.  I left the hotel, got myself some lunch (bread and mineral water- this bubbly water thing is starting to grow on me) and went to the nearest mountain car.  With my bread, book, and camera, I knew there was nothing else I needed.  I’ll have you know, I have become pretty much a professional packer.  Between camping trips, and this exchange, I have learned to get it down pat.  My afternoon was glorious.  Hiked around at throughout the mountain (it was only about halfway up) and found a little bench that faced a view of the other mountain ridge.  The sun shone down and made the snow peaks seem like they were shimmering in the distance.  The sun was warm, the breeze was cool and the air was fresh.  A small steam flowed beside me, and in the distance was a field of cows whose bells jingled happily.  Honestly- it was paradise.  I couldn’t read my book, because I was much more interested in just looking at everything around me. 



Day 1- Schatzalp



A few hours later I walked down to the town and got my room.  As soon as I got in, I did what I would like to call the “ceremonial Stephanie dump”.  And before you get any ideas it means that I take my suitcase (or hockey bag) and dump all of its contents onto the floor so I can better view my clothing and shoe options.  For three days I have five pairs of shoes.  I won’t say how many dresses.  After a quick nap, I went with Walter up to the other mountain ridge in a gondola.  I took a couple of really great panoramas because the snow peaks were fantastic.  We came back to the hotel and prepared for dinner.  Before dinner, all of the people involved in this special week at the hotel (daily hikes with nightly jazz concerts) meet to discuss the next day’s activities.  Each of us chooses the route we would like to take.  I should mention that I am the youngest person in this group by between 30 and 60 years.  There are four levels to choose from.  Walter and Ursula chose Level 3, but because of my lack of exercise lately, I decided to go ahead and try the hardest one.  People gave me crazy looks, and kept asking me if I was sure I’d made a good choice- how terrifying is that? I actually had nightmares about running out of oxygen at the top and never returning to the bottom.  I stuck with my choice however, and headed off to dinner. 



Dinner was phenomenal.  In order to put this claim into perspective, I will say that I even loved the salad.  And I hate salad. The arugula tasted fresher. The olives were wonderful.  The tomatoes were sweet. And there was Swiss cheese on top- no explanation needed.  Next was a greenish-brown soup which tasted 100% better than I just made it sound- take my word for it.  Dinner was beef with gravy that made me want to cry with happiness.  Broccoli with pine nuts (try it- excellent combo), and little deep fried balls of mash potato.  It was one of those portion sizes that make you feel good, not stuffed, or bloated.  I would have wrestled the waitress for another plate.  But, desert completed the meal, and I felt full in no time.  Grand Marnier mousse in an almond cannelloni shell with pistachio ice cream and fresh berried with mint.  Yum yum yum yum.   Walter and Ursula asked me if I wanted to go to the concert in town, but I was practically melting into my chair with exhaustion and a food baby.  They said they were also tired, so we went to the bar for a drink.  I had a mixed-berry tea.  They have this sugar here that is in big chunks that you let melt into your tea.  I stole the bowl of them and have been sucking on sugar crystals since.  So classy, I know, don’t worry, you don’t have to tell me. 



Day 2

I woke up very early after a night of tossing and turning with dreams of falling off rock cliffs and running out of air.  I dressed in all my best spandex, packed my hiking bag, did up my boots as tight as possible (they are borrowed, and three sizes too big) and headed down to breakfast for seven thirty.  It was a buffet, so I was pretty excited.  With my upcoming five hour hike entailing 950m of elevation, I knew I was in need of a substantial breakfast.  There was a table full of bread.  Buns, rolls, croissants, loafs, pastries-you name it, it was there.  Tons of meats and cheeses, cereals, fresh juices, yogurts, and fruits.  I loaded my plate and was just finishing when I saw a man beside me sit down with an omelette.  When I turned around I realized I had missed an entire table and soon headed back for hash browns, sausages, and an omelette full of veggies.  I  think Ursula and Walter were probably taken by surprise at the amount t of food I ate, but I was happy and ready to hike.  I said goodbye for the day and met with my fellow “expert” hikers. 



At first I didn’t really talk to anyone.  I was happy just to walk at the front of the group, follow the leader, and take my pictures.  I was so happy Ursula told me to pack sandwiches (which I stole from the breakfast buffet) because I swear these people had absolutely no desire to take a break or eat within the first three hours.  I have a theory that older Swiss people are in fact another breed of human.  They can walk for hours through extremely difficult terrain, in the thin mountain air, with nothing more than slight heavy breathing and maybe pink cheeks.  I don’t know how they do it, but I was impressed.  I was happy that our pace was slow, because my hamstrings were complaining about the lack of downhill’s, or flat ground for that matter. 

Tricky Terrain



The Most Awesome Hiking Leader



As the sun came up over the mountains it was a warm, clear, and totally stunning day.   When we finally reached our destination (the peak of Rinerhorn), our leaders, Hans, announced that it was time for a break and a snack.  He then proceeded to pull our approximately six bottles of champagne and wine, fifteen wine glasses, a long chain of salami, and a loaf of bread from his backpack.  I guess classiness continues even 2500m above sea level! We all chatted with our wine and snacks and as the others had seconds, I decided to make a few inuksuks.  Now a little piece of Canada stands in the Swiss mountains. 

 



A Little Piece of Canada



I got back from my hike about six and a half hours later, feeling absolutely superb. I had completed a difficult hike.  I had more German conversation than ever before.  It was super cool in Davos because it is a popular vacation spot for people from Germany and Austria.  Therefore, to make things easier for them, everyone speaks High German.  I actually felt included in conversation and like I knew what was going on (sometimes)! I just get so excited when that happens.  I was in such a good mood I went to the workout room for a quick cross-fit session before dinner.  I would like to blame my incapability to finish the workout on the high elevation and previous activity- and not the fact that I have lost my muscle.  I have a theory that what used to be my muscles has been replaced with loafs of bread floating around in my body.  Just a thought. 



And after this workout was when things started to turn.  I had just enough time for a sauna and a shower before going to get ready for dinner.  Here`s the problem- the sauna/steam shower room is unisex.  And very open to nakedness. I had forgotten my bathrobe- and I was terrified. Then, my watch stopped working and I realized after much wandering trying to find a “women” sign I probably should skip the sauna.   I wrapped a towel around me and tried desperately to find a shower where the doors were even slightly fogged.  This took another ten minutes at least.  When I finished showering, I realized I had also forgotten my flip-flops, and that I was late.  I through on my dirty workout clothes again, soaking wet, and ran barefoot through the five-star hotel to my room, hoping to god I didn’t see anyone.  I was in luck, and no one saw my frantic escape from the unisex naked-room. 

 

I made it in time for dinner, chicken, gravy, potatoes, veggies, and another great desert.  I have no idea what it was, and I couldn’t understand the menu, but pastry and blueberries were involved.  Therefore, I was happy.  We went to the lounge fort a tea and to watch the jazz concert of the night.  The band was phenomenal and it was so nice to relax and just listen to the music after a big day.  I made it early to bed, and had a much more peaceful sleep for the next, equally busy day.   

 
  

Day 3 
  



The alarm clock was much too early for my last day, but I got up anyways and was looking forward to another day in the mountains.   I decided to take a slightly easier route and spend the day with Walter and Ursula.  This however turned out to be even harder than the day before trying to keep up to Walter.  The man has his seventieth birthday coming up soon and I swear he hikes like he’s thirty.  Flying up the hills and powering through the flats, I was constantly sweaty and breathing heavily in his wake.  He kept saying “Stephie, (everyone calls me Stephie here- but pronounces it “Shtephie”) have the young legs here.  You can certainly go ahead of me at any time.” I think I made some lame excuse about the possibility of me getting lost, but really I knew I couldn’t possibly go faster! The sights were gorgeous, not quite as exquisite as the day before since we were not as high.  We stopped for lunch at a little cheese factory in the middle of nowhere in the centre of a mountain.  The jazz band from the night before was playing, and there was a cheese and bread buffet for lunch.  Also, we had a lumpy yellowish soup which is apparently very famous here.  After a desert of two giant pieces of heavily whip-creamed cake, Ursula asked the owner if I could get a tour of the cheese making process. Once again it was “this is my daughter from Canada and she would like to…”. Its amazing how this sentence can create so many cool opportunities.  I ended up in the cheese cellar which stunk like mad, but it was pretty cool.  I even got a picture with the cheese maker and the hundreds of kilograms of cheese behind us!  

 

After a short hike to the gondola, we rode down the rest of the mountain (we’d already hiked over five hours).  It immediately occurred to me that I was absolutely exhausted.
I decided to take the next train home, and was driven in the hotel car with Ursula because I missed my bus.  I expected to shake her hand outside of the car, do the traditional three cheek kisses (you do that all the time here), say thank you, and head to my platform.   However, she walked me all the way into the train and made sure I had a good seat.  She wanted me to sit on the same side as the platform, and I realized after why.  For the next eight minutes before the train left, Ursula stood waiting so that she could wave to me through the window as my train left the station.  It was the sweetest thing ever.  It reminded me of the last wave from my family in the airport and I got all choked up.  The trip home was uneventful- I was tired and sun-stroked.  But as soon as I was out of Davos I wished I could go back.  But, that’s the beauty about Switzerland- I can! Everything, and everywhere, is just a train ride away.